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You should never have to unless you suspect transmission issues that would cause excess material to build up there. If you check the screen and it’s full of clutch material you probably need a transmission rebuild.

Just wiring diagrams I found on the internet. There’s no great site that has all of them in one place and depending on the year of your truck some of these could change a bit. I downloaded pictures of them on my computer for quick access.

No there shouldn’t be unless something else is needing repaired.

Send me an email. ih.iowafarmer@gmail.com

Sounds like your injection pump. I believe it reads speed off the cam of the pump internally and if your bearings are going out the metal filings collect on the sensor. Precision diesel clinic in red oak iowa could answer for sure if it is. I have the pdf diagnostics for a Mac computer. I don’t know how well it will work on windows. I could try and send it in email form but it might be to big. Send me your email address and I can try.

😂 well I guess the best answer would be that grown ups like to have fun to. Some like big antlers hanging on a wall or the biggest fish picture or cheering for a group of men who can carry a pig skin better or twiddling their thumbs on a controller. If you call killing a beautiful animal for the fun of it ok, then I suppose a little smoke isn’t a lot different. Childish perhaps but I still want to have fun with my children when they are teenagers so I might have to stay partially a teenager for the next 15 years or so.

It is jd service advisor. It’s fully downloaded. You need windows to run it but I hate windows computers so I just installed a second hard drive on a 2009 Mac book pro and run windows on that. It works surprisingly well for being 15 years old. Lol. Here is a link where you can purchase it. the-best-manuals-online.com/collections/john-deere-repair-service/products/john-deere-service-advisor-4-2-agricultural-2016-all-models-all-serials-service-parts-manuals-free-online-installation

Sorry I don’t have the videos done yet on the reassembly but I hope to have them posted in a few days. Also I hope to post the calibration process but with spring field work happening now I might not get that done for awhile.

First thing to check is the ipr valve. I just had a truck with a very similar problem. I have the video but haven’t got it uploaded yet on what I did with that one but basically take the valve out of your truck and shake it the long way and you should hear a tap tap from the solenoid inside. If you can’t you can take it apart and clean it (plenty of vids on UA-cam about that) or buy a new one for $400. The electronic part of it could be bad as well. That’s a little harder to test but should have about 10.3-10.7 olms.

I guess I’m not sure what your referring to by “expander plugs”.

no, you do not have to

Parts are hard to find. Thankfully this truck was very complete. We still need a head liner of some kind. I found one but never could get ahold of the guy to buy it. We were missing an inside door handle as well and I happened to see an IH truck at a junk yard so I grabbed a handle off that one. I also blew the rear diff doing a burnout and found someone about two hours away selling a chassis for a reasonable price so I picked it up. No more burnouts though :)

Well thanks for the reply your truck looks killer. I guess I will hit up the junk yards!!!

The tractor will probably have about 8000 hours since they aren’t very common here in Sweden

Well to set your mind at ease on the hours, here in America there are very few of these old tractors left with less than 10,000 hours. I think all the tractors in my videos have 10,000 hours or more on them. It's not strange to see a 00 series or a 10 series go 12,000 hours or more without even an overhaul but then there are some that need overhauled sooner just depending how they were taken care of. The 20 series have usually all been overhauled by 8000 hours or so as they tend to run their EGTs to high. The 10 series is almost identical to the 00 series except they have an implement management system and automatic power shift system and most people never use either one. They also have digital gauges as well. There might be a few other small mechanical differences as well but nothing major.

Wiring all looks good, i am thinking the C2 shift valve/solenoid is weak. Possibly need to change the valve and recalibrate?

Yes I think you are correct on starting with the C2 valve. To test the theory you can just switch it with the CR (reverse) and see if the problem follows it. The PCU code 27 is saying your transmission failed calibration. The CR valve is the top left valve easily accessible from the battery cover side. The C1 is next to it followed by the C2 and C3 and AB in that order. Note that these are the valves that are horizontal in the transmission and not the vertical ones. Also the vertical and horizontal are different and cannot be switched.

Here in America we pay a road tax on fuel. Off road machines such as tractors do not need to pay this tax so they die the untaxed fuel red. It’s a pretty big fine if you get caught running red fuel in a road vehicle but people still do it as most never get caught. As a Christian I feel like using untaxed fuel in a road vehicle would be dishonest even though I would probably never get caught.

Oh really, that's interesting

Is this PCU 015 or what kind of error are you referring to?

If it is PCU 15 I think it will be your clutch engage switch. There are two switches or sensors on the back of the transmission ( not the park brake pressure sensor at top left) one is just left of the drive shaft the other is towards the top right of the drive shaft. It could also be wiring. Enough people have this problem I need to make a video on it.

Desperate times call for desperate measures.

Well the reason I’m able to do this video on the older John Deere’s is because I’ve worked on them and used them a lot. I’ve done a few minor repairs on case ih equipment but nothing major and I don’t have very many hours operating time either so I’m probably not familiar enough with their problems to tell other people what to watch out for. Sorry

Are there any active codes? If so you will need to deal with those first before a calibration will work correctly. Does it show 000 and then after you try to start the calibration it shows err or does it never get the the three 0s?

It’s also possible it is detecting wheel speed. There is a chance changing the speed sensor could fix it as well. I’m not sure exactly where that is located at the moment without doing some research.

@@iowafarmer93 i got a few error codes most of them about parking or the pilot seat. but there is any way i could bypass the error codes and just do the calibration?

No. For starters I’m guessing the seat sensor needs fixed but it can be hot wired by crossing the wires in the plug behind the seat. The park brake issue though is a big deal. I’m not sure what the codes are that you have for that and if you don’t know how to read all the codes my video “ watch before buying a JD 8400” should cover all that. I had an 8100 that I could not calibrate because the park brake wouldn’t hold. I even went as far as to hook two other 8000 series tractors to the front and back to try to get it to stay in one spot but during the calibration it was rocking all three tractors and eventually failed the calibration anyway. The park has to work in order for the calibration to work.

@@iowafarmer93 i am tring to fix the problems now but i am having a Hard time finding the cluch sensor on 8200. Any ideea Where it should be?

Here is the instructions for a 20 series. It’s possible you have a faulty coolant sensor. Calibration Instructions: Perform the required response to continue the calibration procedure if any of the following instructions are displayed: "For" Move shift lever to "FORWARD" position. Forward Valve calibration will continue. "Oil" -Oil is not hot enough. Heat oil to 55°C (130°F) (or Oil is too hot, cool oil to below 63°C (146°F)). Forward Valve calibration will continue. (Note: hydraulic oil can be viewed on the Vehicle monitor by pressing the PTO SPEED and RV hours buttons simultaneously.) "H2o" -Coolant temperature must be heated. Command engine speed to 2200 ‡ 30 RPM, heat engine coolant temperature to greater that 70°C (158°F). (Note: engine coolant temp can be viewed on the vehicle monitor by pressing the SPEED and CODE buttons simultaneously.) "nEU". - Move shift lever to "NEUTRAL" then to "FORWARD". Forward Valve calibration will continue. If "nEU" still displays, return to diagnosis in progress. "Spd" - Increase engine speed to 2200 rpm. Forward Valve calibration will continue. If unable to get 2200 rpm and ECU code 055 is present, perform CAN Network Diagnosis. (See Reference 245-05-006 .) If ECU code 055 is not present, see CTM255 for diagnosis of the engine cam speed sensor (B405) and engine crank speed sensor (B406). "CLU" - Fully cycle clutch pedal. If "CLU" continues to display, check clutch engagement pressure. it. -Wait 2-3 seconds for tractor to stabilize. Forward Valve calibration will continue. "Erp" -Wheel speed (motion) is detected. Stop all tractor motion. If "Err" continues, return to diagnosis in progress "rEU" -Move shift lever to "REVERSE" slot. Forward Valve calibration will continue

@iowafarmer93 Thank you very much for this information. My local john deere dealer wouldn't even provide this to me🤨

Never been to CA and I’m more than 1000 miles away in Iowa.

​​@@iowafarmer93 I'm in Palo Alto County... 🤠 Good information .. Good video.. Not BS ... You got right to the point.. The diagnostic presentation spot on.. ya know ... #coldbushesbakedbeansandpatatochips. #sixborderstates #ninetyninecounties

I have not done a video on that. If the shaft is out and the snap ring is broken simply put in a new snap ring and o ring and shove the shaft back in till the snap ring clips in.

the-best-manuals-online.com/collections/diagnostic-software/john-deer Go to this website and purchase version 4.2 ag and construction 2017 all models. It is currently priced at $450 usd

After running the machine for awhile longer now there are definitely things I have learned about how it functions and how to make it function correctly. Since the ag leader was not built for the spreader you usually just have to guess how many sections to use when setting it up. Now that I’ve used it enough I’ve found that 16 is where it likes it at although on the green star I believe it used 14 sections for 59ft. Also you are right about the hydraulic hose that should be run from the right side for orbit motors. I think I learned about that soon after I made this video. It makes sense as to why it’s on that side as you can go directly to float without reversing the oil flow in the process. I have found the spreader works almost flawlessly unless there is user error. Also the right swath control motor is working again. I had to recalibrate it several times and it finally worked again but I still won’t take a chance on really fine seeds so I always turn off swath control on the monitor which is kind of annoying but at least it works.

Do you have 4th reverse? If you do then it’s not a problem with the transmission mechanics but probably computer. I know when the tractor is really cold it will not shift past 14th until it warms up a bit. It might just be the solenoid valve for that gear. It might have a loose wire going to it that’s not making a very good connection. No matter what is causing the problem it should be throwing a code and blinking the transmission light. If you can give me the code that is coming up that would help a lot. If you don’t know how to read codes I can get that info for you as well.

@@iowafarmer93 ,Congratulations, the temperature at that time was 58, and it did not turn on, I was towing a 10-ton barrel of water. From the morning of the second day, I drove to the field again, the temperature of the box was 22 and it perfectly switched to 14 without problems, then after a couple of days it refused to switch, and it was like that for 2 days, then it switched again, the problem then appears and disappears on its own . I only have one error on the screen, it's HCU 58, it's raising and lowering the hitch from the outside of the tractor, both buttons are broken, it doesn't throw any more errors. If it's an electrical part, and I'm now 80% sure that this is the case, then I'll have to contact an electrician, so I can't do anything about it myself, because I don't know the working principle of this gearbox perfectly. P.S Yes i have 4gear reverse.

Ok so you only have one code on the side screen. That might be the only active code. If you remove the fuse panel cover and take a fuse from a spot marked “spare” and place it in the spot marked “diag” you will enter the diagnostic mode on the computer. Step 2. Turn ignition on but do not start the engine. Step 3. You will see on your corner post screen it says “dia” using your turn signal, turn to the right one click until it says all. Step 4 pull turn signal lever towards you and it will start to go through the different computer errors. If pulling the lever back does nothing it is most likely because it is broken. There is a work around if that is the case. After going through the codes and writing them down you can clear the codes by switching on and off your hazard switch while it displays “END” after the sequence of codes. After retrieving the codes you may post them here. I will only need the codes from the PCU and CCU. The rest will not be of any help to this issue. If there are no codes then I’m afraid I can’t help you any further. Does the tractor have a top speed of 30 kilometers ( 18 mph ) or 40 kilometers ( 24 mph) ?

I just thought of something that is a very common problem. When this happens simply take your foot and pull your clutch lever up a little farther. I am almost sure this will fix your problem.

@@iowafarmer93 ,Thank you for the tip, I will definitely check it, now it shifts again without problems, but when that happens I will check the clutch life hack

Get to the fucking point

Mine is that way

Sorry I just now saw this. No mine would start to idle rough soon after start up and then start to miss fire on more and more cylinders until it completely died. I found out this was due to compression getting into the fuel system and starving the injectors for fuel.

@@iowafarmer93 how did you fix it

@@RollingThunder85 I replaced the injector seals and copper washer on the bottom of the injector and for good measure I also replaced the injector tip and injector cup just in case they were damaged from the extra heat.

Same 😂

Same but with my bluetooth speaker 😂

Hahaha looks like a lot us do this 😂